
The museum's annual 2005 "Riches
in Stitches" exhibit featured a sampling of needlework from
the late 19th century to the mid-20th century. In an era of largely
handmade piecework, the everyday homemaker transformed the purely
functional aspect of simple and mundane household items and clothing
into creations of beauty by adding embellishment through the
techniques of embroidery, crochet, tatting, and more. We recently
had on display a variety of such examples as well as some of
the simple tools used to create exceptional examples of domestic
skill.

Needlework in its many forms
has been present for millennia. Egyptian, Chinese, Japanese,
and Inca, for example, had developed various complex and intricate
forms of needlework, although they have been found in contexts
related only to the aristocracy. Likewise, Europe in the Middle
Ages had developed elaborate forms of embroidery, petit point,
crewel work, and various knitting and crochet stitches. However,
this ornamentation was restricted to items worn or owned by the
aristocracy, nobility or members of religious institutions.
Needlework was considered a
suitable activity for women of the upper classes, as well as
cloistered nuns. The 11th century Bayeux Tapestry, created in
England in the 1070's, depicts the events leading to the conquest
of England by William of Normandy in 1066. Ar 230 ft. long by
20 inches wide, it is an unprecedented and unparalleled example
of embroidery from the early Medieval Period.
With the sweeping social changes
wrought by the plagues in the mid-fourteenth century, fabric
embellishment began to appear on the garments of the emerging
middle class, who had the financial means and time to dedicate
to such ornamentation. However, laws and edicts were levied to
restrict the wearing of certain fabric colors, weaves, and embellishment
to the upper classes only. Needlework was thus the visible means
to separate and identify the upper classes well into the 19th
century.
Victorian Society, with all
the obstentation that became the hallmark of the "Gilded
Age" continued this tradition to the extreme. The Industrial
Revolution, which reached its apex during this time, provided
factory-produced and reasonably priced skills, cottons, and woolen
fabrics, threads and yarns, aniline dyes, (which made available
an expanded range of colors), buttons, and the sewing machine
(patented in 1846).
These durable goods, coupled
with mass-marketing efforts and new transporation systems, made
such luxuries available to the general population. These innovations
also freed up time for the average housewife, who then added
embellishment to the clothing, linens, draperies, and other household
items of her household. Social implications dictated that the
amount of time that a woman spent on such decorative pursuits
became an indication of the family's social and economic status.
By the 1920's, factory-produced,
embellished fabrics were being produced, and were instantly popular,
as women no longer desired to spend their leisure engaged in
such time-intensive pursuits. Home crafts went into a decline,
and did not recover until the Depression. After 1930, hand-produced
needlework again became fashionable, owing primarily to economic
factors.
After World War II, and its
emphasis on homemade and home-produced goods for the war effort,
interest in needlework skills further waned. The social movement
of the late 1960's-1970's, with an emphasis on heritage crafts
and lifestyles, saw a revival in domestic, hand-forged and handcrafted
items and skills. However, with increasing numbers of women entering
the workforce, since the mid-1970's, hand-produced needlework
is again declining. |